Pool Care 101
Simple, no-fluff steps to keep your water clear all season — plus quick fixes for the most common problems.
Quick Fixes
Click the issue you’re seeing right now:
The Weekly Routine (10–15 Minutes)
- Test water 2–3x/week and adjust as needed.
- Skim + empty baskets including skimmer and pump basket.
- Brush walls/steps to break up algae film.
- Vacuum or run cleaner and keep debris out.
- Check filter pressure and backwash/clean when it rises 8–10 PSI over clean pressure.
Monthly: full water test + inspect equipment.
Target Ranges (Most Pools)
| Free Chlorine (FC) | 1–3 ppm higher for heavy use |
| pH | 7.4–7.6 |
| Total Alkalinity (TA) | 80–120 ppm |
| Stabilizer (CYA) | 30–50 ppm outdoor chlorine pools |
| Calcium Hardness | 200–400 ppm varies by pool type |
Troubleshooting
Green Pool / Algae (water turning green, walls feel slippery)
- Brush everything including walls, floor, steps, and ladders.
- Clean/backwash filter and run pump longer.
- Shock appropriately based on pool size and water condition.
- Vacuum to waste if possible when algae is dead and settled.
- Bring a water sample if chlorine won’t hold — CYA, ammonia, phosphates, or metals can be part of it.
Cloudy Water (hazy water, poor clarity, not sparkling)
- Check chlorine and pH first.
- Clean/backwash the filter if pressure is high.
- Run the pump longer and brush/vacuum.
- If chemistry is good, ask us about clarifier or filter aid.
Chlorine Not Holding (you add chlorine, but it disappears)
- Low stabilizer can let sunlight burn chlorine off quickly.
- Very high stabilizer can make chlorine less effective.
- Algae, leaves, dirt, and organics can use chlorine up fast.
- Ammonia can create a very high chlorine demand and make free chlorine drop quickly.
- High phosphates can feed algae, which makes chlorine work harder.
Ammonia / Phosphates (why chlorine readings can get confusing)
Ammonia
Ammonia can come from leaves, debris, fertilizer runoff, animals, swimmer waste, rain water, or old water that sat too long.
It can react with chlorine fast and make free chlorine drop to zero even after chlorine was just added.
High total chlorine or combined chlorine can mean chlorine is being used up fighting something in the water.
Phosphates
Phosphates are algae food. They can come from leaves, pollen, dirt, fertilizer, mulch, runoff, fill water, and some pool products.
Phosphates do not usually eat chlorine directly, but they help algae grow. Algae then uses chlorine up faster.
This can make it seem like chlorine is not holding, even when chlorine is being added regularly.
Weak Suction / Filter Issues (weak flow, bubbles, high pressure, or low pressure)
- Empty skimmer and pump baskets.
- Make sure water level is around mid-skimmer.
- Check if the skimmer weir door is stuck.
- Inspect pump lid o-ring and fittings for air leaks.
- If pressure is high, clean/backwash the filter. If pressure is low, check for blockage or air leak.
Understanding Chlorine Readings (free, total, and combined chlorine)
- Free Chlorine: chlorine still available to sanitize the pool.
- Total Chlorine: all chlorine showing on the test, including chlorine that may already be tied up.
- Combined Chlorine: chlorine that has reacted with contaminants and is no longer working properly.